Fix It

Chrome is short for chromium, a naturally occurring element electroplated on the surface of hard metal to give it a fabulous shine. Chrome is a soft metal that resists tarnishing, but over time, exposure to air and the elements will cause it to rust and pit. If not taken care of, pitted chrome will continue to deteriorate. You can polish out minor pitting by hand, but deep pitting requires professional re-plating.

Instructions

1

Wash the part with water and dish detergent. Rinse the part and dry it with a lint-free cloth. Run your fingernail over the pitted section. If the pitting does not catch your fingernail, you can polish the section with steel wool. If the pitting catches your fingernail, it is too deep for polishing and needs professional restoration.

2

Dip a piece of 0000 fine steel wool into water and lightly polish the pitted section. Rub in a circular pattern until the pitting is gone. Wipe the surface with a dampened cloth to remove any steel wool fibers.

3

Dip a piece of 00000 superfine steel wool into water for a final polish of the surface. Rub in a circular pattern. Wipe the surface with a dampened cloth to remove any steel wool fibers, then pat dry.

4

Use a cotton cloth and any kind of chrome polish to remove fine scratches and give the part a lustrous shine. Apply the chrome polish to the surface of the entire part.

5

Spray a light coat of clear lacquer, acrylic or urethane on the part to protect the chrome from oxidation. Follow the directions on the spray can, then apply two to three coats.

Motor mounts are important automobile parts used to protect the engine, transmission and surrounding components from damage. Motor mounts also reduce the amount of noise and vibration in the vehicle to improve passenger comfort.

Operation

Motor mounts secure the engine and transmission to the body of a vehicle. Motor mounts are made of two plates of steel joined by a large rubber block. One plate is attached to the engine or transmission and the other to the frame. The rubber block cushions the movements of the engine and transmission.

Hydraulic

Though less commonly used than the rubber block design, some motor mounts use hydraulic fluid to cushion the engine and transmission movements. These mounts also use two steel plates but are connected by a small hydraulic cylinder. Some hydraulic mounts adjust while driving to optimize the mounts performance.

Troubleshooting

A defective motor mount allows the engine and transmission to move too far and too quickly. During acceleration or heavy braking, the broken mount may create a thumping noise as the engine or transmission strikes the broken mount. Broken motor mounts should be immediately replaced before this excessive movement causes damage.

Replacing the exhaust manifolds on your Ford F-150 truck is a complicated process that varies greatly depending not only on the year of the truck but also the type of engine. The manifolds are connected to the cylinder heads and the catalytic converters. You should talk with your mechanic before attempting this type of repair.

Instructions

V6 Engines

1

Disconnect the trucks negative battery cable, then raise the truck and securely support it on jack stands.

2

Disconnect the electrical connectors to the oxygen sensor.

3

Remove the nuts connecting the exhaust Y-pipe to the manifolds. Apply penetrating oil to the nuts and studs, if necessary.

4

Remove the engine lifting bracket. For the drivers side manifold, remove the dipstick tube from the oil pan by removing its nut and pulling it out. For the passengers side manifold, disconnect the EGR pipe from the manifold.

5

Disconnect the six mounting nuts for the exhaust manifold. Separate the manifold from the cylinder head and remove the old gaskets.

6

Place the replacement exhaust manifold with new gaskets onto the cylinder head. Install the mounting nuts with a torque wrench, tightening the center nuts first, followed by the front pair and the rear pair.

7

Reconnect and install the other components in the reverse order of removal--this can include the engine lifting bracket, oil dipstick tube, EGR pipe and oxygen sensor electrical connector.

8

Lower the truck and reconnect the battery cable.

V8 Engines

9

Disconnect the negative battery cable, raise the truck and support it on jack stands. Remove the inner splash shield from the fender well.

10

Disconnect the EGR pipe at the EGR valve and exhaust manifold if you are removing the drivers side manifold on a 4.6 liter engine. On a 5.4 liter, remove the front and rear heated oxygen sensors and the exhaust support bracket.

11

Remove the starter if youre removing the passengers side manifold. Also remove the stabilizer bar on a 5.4 liter engine.

12

Disconnect the catalytic converter assemblies from the manifold on a 5.4 liter engine by removing their nuts, then move the assemblies to the rear of the truck.

13

Remove the mounting nuts from the exhaust manifold and remove it. Remove the studs from the cylinder heads and discard them and the nuts.

14

Clean the mating surface on the cylinder heads, using a gasket scraper to remove any carbon deposits. Install new studs into the cylinder heads.

15

Place the exhaust manifold over the studs with new gaskets. Install new mounting nuts, working from the rear to the front and alternating between the top and bottom rows.

16

Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal and lower the truck. If you need to reconnect the EGR pipe, apply a small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads.

You can reset the service engine light on your Chevrolet S10 by using an OBD-II scan tool. This on-board diagnostic tool can be purchased from your local auto parts retailer, although many such stores will check the code and reset the light at no charge.



The service engine light will turn on at regular intervals when your vehicle needs routine maintenance. After the maintenance is completed you will need to manually reset the light to turn it off. This is an easy adjustment that will only take a few moments.

Instructions

1

Look for the OBD II port located near the emergency brake on the lower dashboard. The OBD II port will be the receptive end for the connector on the OBD II scanner tool. Examine the connector end of the tool and the receptive port to make sure you have the correct port. Plug the OBD II scanner tool into the port.

2

Close the doors, roll up the windows and turn on the OBD II scanner tool. Put the key into the ignition and turn it to "on," but take care not to start the engine. Turning the vehicle on will start the electrical system which will power the OBD II scanner tool and allow it to do its job. The engine needs to remain off for the scanner to work.

3

Wait for the screen on the scanner to stop flashing. The service engine light will have turned off. Turn the key in the ignition to "off" and unplug the scanner.

4

Restart the engine and verify that the service engine light is still off on the instrument panel. Turn off the car.

Like any other craftsman, a mechanic must use tools to aid him in getting the job done efficiently and effectively. One such tool often taken for granted is the bottle jack. A bottle jack lifts a heavy vehicle with hydraulics. Without a bottle jack, a mechanics work would often be impeded by the lack of accessibility to a part of a vehicle. Repairing a bottle jack can be expensive. Try fixing it yourself before making the investment in repair or a new purchase.

Instructions

1

Extend the jack arm fully to its maximum height at the jack mount surface.

2

Locate the release valve on the opposite side of your pump. Pull out the piston located within the chamber.

3

Use your flashlight to check the chamber for cracks, oil build-up, dirt and other substances. You should see a small trace amount of oil within the chamber but nothing more. Excessive dirt indicates a bad seal which will require professional repair.

4

Locate the oil reservoir filler cap which is the uppermost cap inside the release valve. Use your screwdriver to pry open the cap if necessary. The hydraulic oil should be 1/4 inch below the opening. Fill the reservoir to the 1/4 inch mark if necessary.

5

Wipe the jack clean with a cloth to detect oil. Pump the jack several times by the handle with the release valve still open. Look for leaking oil.

6

Close the release valve. Pump the jack up to its full height position. If the jack will not rise, bleed the jack by opening the release valve.

7

Attach the jack to your vehicle. Pump the jack to lift the vehicle to see if the jack is now working properly. If the jack will not lift, seek professional repair.

Removal of the shifter boot in your Dodge Ram truck allows you to access the four bolts on top of the transmission retaining the shifter assembly to the transmission. The rubber boot may crack over time and require replacement as well. If this is the case, you can get a replacement from the dealer or through a salvage yard. If you remove the shifter boot and intend to reuse it, use care so you do not rip it as you pull it off the shifter shaft.

Instructions

1

Sit in the seat of your Dodge, sliding it all the way back to expose the shifter boot on the floor of the truck. Locate the metal ring on the floor surrounding the shifter boot.

2

Grasp the shifter knob on top of the shifter assembly, turn it counterclockwise to loosen it and remove it from the shifter shaft. Set the knob aside in a safe spot so you can put it back later.

3

Locate the screws in the metal ring on the floor around the shifter boot. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver, and set them aside.

4

Lift the ring, and pull the boot up the shaft. Pull the entire boot assembly off the top of the shifter shaft as a unit.

Car air conditioner systems have multiple parts and if any of them malfunction your air conditioner may stop working properly. If you find your cars air conditioning system is not producing the cool air it used to, there are a number of simple ways to investigate the cause of the problem. Most air conditioner malfunctions occur due to a lack of rigerant, sometimes caused by leaks in the air conditioning unit.

Instructions

Check the Refrigerant Level

1

Turn off your car, then open the hood and locate your air conditioning unit. Air conditioning units are located at various places depending on the type of car you own. If you have trouble finding it, consult your car manual. The unit will have a compartment for the rigerant and a fan system.

2

Connect the AC pressure gauge to the side port of the air conditioning unit. Turn on the car and allow the engine to run for a few minutes.

3

Depress the accelerator. If the AC pressure gauges meter dips down when you accelerate, there is not enough rigerant in the vehicle.

Check for Leaks

4

Visually inspect the air conditioning unit with your car running. Check to see if the compressor is cycling and if the fan belt seems work.

5

Inject a small amount of auto-safe florescent dye into the air conditioning unit. This florescent dye is available at most auto parts stores and allows you to see any leaks or damage in the air conditioner unit. Follow the directions for insertion on the can.

6

Visually inspect the air conditioner unit for any holes or leaks in the pipes, tubes or compressors. The florescent dye will cover any holes or cracks, making them easy to spot.

7

Fix cracks or holes before adding more rigerant to prevent pollution and damage to your vehicle.

You can reset the computer codes on your Honda right from your home garage, saving time and money. The trouble codes are sent to the On-Board Diagnostics computer (OBD) from sensors positioned throughout the car. These codes pinpoint the service needs of the vehicle. Read the codes using a handheld computerized device called an OBD scan tool. Once the codes have been read and the repairs done, clear the codes using the OBD tool. This will reset the computer and shut off the lights.

Instructions

1

Find a port on the underside of the drivers side dash that is the same size and shape as the connective end of the OBD scan tool. Plug the scan tool into this port.

2

Put the key into the Hondas ignition and turn it to the "On" position, taking care not to crank the engine. This will power on the scan tool.

3

Wait while the scan tool reads the codes. Find a command on the scan tool that says "Clear Codes" or something similar. When the main menu reappears, the codes have been cleared.

4

Unplug the scan tool and start the engine. Verify that all warning and service lights have shut off.

When rebuilding an engine, the clearance between the main bearings and the crankshafts main bearing journals are critical. Too much clearance results in engine knocks, while not enough clearance results in burned bearings because they cannot get proper lubrication. These clearances are especially important to measure and adjust after machining the crankshaft to remove imperfections. Although it sounds complicated, measuring the clearances and adjusting them to specifications is really quite simple.

Instructions

1

Dip a set of standard size main bearings in engine oil and slip them into the block and main bearing caps.

2

Set the crankshaft in the block, ensuring that the main bearing journals of the crankshaft sit on the main bearings in the block.

3

Smear a light coating of grease across the center of the bearing journals on the crankshaft. Put a string of Plastigauge in the grease on each main bearing journal. The grease will keep the Plastigauge in place.

4

Install each bearing cap in its original position, thread the bearing cap bolts into the block through the bearing caps. Tighten the bearing caps with any tools necessary from a toolkit. Torque the main bearing cap bolts with a torque wrench.

5

Remove the main bearing caps, one bearing cap at a time. Measure the Plastigauge with the built in scale on the Plastigauge packaging. Subtract the recommended factory main bearing clearance from the Plastigauge reading. The result will be the size of the oversize bearing needed for that particular main bearing journal. Repeat for all main bearing caps.

6

Remove the crankshaft. Slip the appropriate over-sized bearing in the block required for each crankshaft journal, depending on their individual Plastigauge readings, after dipping them in motor oil. Slide the other half of the bearing into the main bearing cap after dipping it in motor oil. Plastigauge each bearing again to ensure all bearing clearances are correct before proceeding any further. Adjust the bearing sizes as needed.

The first thing you can do to replace the catalytic converter in your Toyota Tercel is forget about the cheaper universal fit catalytic converter at the auto parts stores. Although this may seemingly save you money for the part, youre going to have to buy adapters or figure out how to make that universal fit converter fit like a direct fit converter. A direct fit converter for a Tercel will have a two-point flange on either side and will do just as its label describes: fit directly. In the long run it will save you time, money, and will work better for your Tercel since it was specifically designed for it.

Instructions

1

Lift the Toyota Tercel on a car lift all the way up.

2

Put on the cutting glasses, and light the acetylene torch using a striker. Cut the bolts and nuts from the catalytic converter from the flange(s) on the converter side. This way you will not incur damage to the flanges bolted to the converter flanges. Cut the bolt heads (with the torch) or the nuts flush to the converter flange.

3

Turn the torch off, switch over to safety glasses, and knock out the bolts from the converter side of the flanges using the hammer and a long stemmed punch. If they do not punch through, you may need to relight the torch and cut into the bolt hole a little deeper.

4

Remove the old converter.

5

Pick the old gaskets off of the pipe flanges on both side using a pick or awl.

6

Clean the surface of the flat part of the pipe flanges on both sides using an angled die grinder with a sanding disk.

7

Place the new gaskets onto the small pipe outlet protruding from the pipe flanges.

8

Check the exhaust flow of the new catalytic converter. It will be stamped on the shell or shields of the converter and be easy to see. There will be an arrow pointing in the direction of the exhaust flow or an A and B marking. A would indicate towards the front of the motor, and B would indicate towards the back of the Tercel.

9

Attach the converter flanges to the pipe flanges and place the bolts into the flanges (in any direction) in this fashion: bolt head with a flat washer through the flanges, then a lock washer and nut.

10

Tighten the bolts and nuts holding one end with a wrench and tightening with an air ratchet. Tighten each bolt a little bit, switch to the next one, and continue this pattern until all four nuts and bolts have seated the flanges tight together.

11

Remove tools and lower the Tercel on the lift. Start it up, raise it up again, and check for any possible leaks coming from the flange connections. If so, tighten the bolts some more.

The General Motors Oil Life Monitor System first appeared in GM trucks in the 2000 model year. The system measures the remaining service life of an engines motor oil based on several factors, including the number of engine starts, miles driven at operating temperature and total hours of engine operation. The Oil Life Monitor System determines intervals between oil changes based on operating conditions. You should reset the oil light to initiate a service interval after you change the oil.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition key to the "on" position.

2

Depress the accelerator pedal three times to the floor in rapid succession within five seconds. Turn the ignition key off and wait for ten seconds.

3

Turn the ignition key to the "Start" position, and start the engine. The Oil Life Monitor system has been reset.

The water pump in a 1990 Ford F-150 Lariat keeps the engine cool by circulating water and coolant throughout the engine. A malfunctioning water pump can cause the engines temperature to increase, even when the radiator has sufficient coolant. This may eventually result in permanent damage to the engine. The pump attaches to the timing chain cover on the front of the engine block. You will need to drain the cooling system when replacing the pump.

Instructions

1

Position a sealable container under the radiator drain hole and remove the drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container. Seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Disconnect the shroud from the radiator. Detach the radiator hose, bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the drive belt and the cooling fan assembly, including the fan spacer and pulley.

3

Remove the alternator mounting bolts with a socket wrench, and move the alternator out of the way to access the water pump. You may also need to remove the power steering pump bracket if the vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the pump from the timing chain cover. Discard the water pump gasket.

4

Apply a thin layer of sealer to the new gasket. Install the new pump and gasket to the timing chain cover. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Repeat steps two and three in reverse order to complete the installation of the new water pump. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

The 1998 Dodge pickup uses a crank sensor to feed detailed information to the power train control module to indicate the current position of the crankshaft as it rotates, as well as the crankshafts revolutions per minute (rpm). The crankshaft position sensors data determines when to fire the fuel injectors. On gasoline engines, it also determines when to fire the ignition coil to light the fuel-air mixture. Intermittent problems with the crankshaft position sensor cause hesitations and stalling of the vehicle. A continuous error with the crank sensor will prevent the vehicle from starting. Testing the crankshaft position sensor requires access to the sensor and plug.

Instructions

Gasoline Engines

1

Set the parking brake of the 1998 Dodge pickup truck. Pull the hood release handle. Open the hood.

2

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Loosen the 10 mm retaining nut on the battery cable clamp using a 10 mm wrench. Pry the battery cable off the negative battery post by twisting side to side by hand. The negative battery post has a "-" label next to it.

3

Stand on the passenger side of the truck. Place the work light next to the exhaust manifold as close as possible to the firewall.

4

Lean over the fender. Extend the telescoping inspection mirror in between the back of the cylinder head and the firewall.

5

Angle the mirror to inspect the edge of the transmission bell housing where it meets the engine block. A steel bracket secured by two 10 mm bolts with a three-wire harness retains the crankshaft position sensor, which reads gaps in a ring of the flywheel.

Diesel Engines

6

Open the hood of the 1998 Dodge pickup, and disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10 mm wrench.

7

Lie down face up on an automotive creeper, and slide under the drivers side of the vehicle just behind the tire, taking the wrench and the trouble light with you.

8

Hang an automotive trouble light underneath the vehicle.

9

Remove the three 10 mm bolts retaining the starter to the transmission bell housing using a 10 mm wrench. Remove the starter.

10

Look directly between the engine block and the location from which you removed the starter. The crankshaft position sensor is a black plastic sensor with an aluminum retaining bracket held in place by a single 10 mm bolt. The crank sensor has a three-wire harness plugged into it.

Engine problems in Jeep Liberties have led to a safety recall due to the possibility of engine fires. On July 2, 2004, DaimlerChrysler Corporation and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration announced a recall of 1,600 Jeep Liberty vehicles for engine problems.

Engine Defect

Certain Jeep Liberty sport utility vehicles equipped with 3.7L engines were recalled for engine-related manufacturing defects that could lead to serious problems. Two valve cover studs on these vehicles could interfere with the fuel injector and alternator wiring harness, according to NHTSA.

Safety Risk

Due to this safety hazard, the NHTSA warns that a fire could start under the hood as a result of damage to the alternator wiring harness. Registered vehicle owners were notified of the safety recall beginning July 19, 2004, and instructed on where to bring the vehicles for repair to avoid the risk of a fire.

Solution

Authorized dealers were instructed to add protective caps to the valve cover studs and re-route the affected wiring harness to provide clearance, according to the manufacturer and NHTSA. Consumers who purchased second-hand vehicles or who are otherwise concerned about whether they may have been affected by the Jeep Liberty engine-related recall may contact the NHTSA for more information. Refer to recall number 04V337000.

Honda produced the F22A6 for use in the Honda Accord during the years 1991 through 1993. The Honda Accord was manufactured during these years as a coupe, sedan and a wagon in trim levels that included the DX, SE, LX and EX. Most Accords during these years were manufactured with manual transmissions, although the 1991 Accord SE sedan and 1992 Accord SE sedan and coupe used an automatic transmission.

General

The F22A6 is an in-line four-cylinder engine built in a single overhead cam configuration. In the 1991 to 1993 Honda Accord, it was configured as a front-wheel-drive engine. In the various trim levels, it achieved 19 to 22 mpg in the city, 25 to 28 mpg on the highway, and 21 to 24 mpg combined.

Displacement

The F22A6 has a displacement of 2,156 cubic centimeters or 132 cubic inches, and was listed as a 2.2-liter engine. The cylinder bore measures 85 millimeters and the piston stroke 95 millimeters with a compression ratio of 8.8:1.

Power

Basic engine horsepower of the F22A6 without accessories is listed at 140 horsepower at 5,600 rpm. Installed in the Accord, it delivers 125 horsepower to the wheels at 5,200 rpm. The F22A6 is capable of 142 foot-lbs. of torque at 5,400 rpm but in the Accord delivers 137 foot-lbs. at 4,000 rpm.

Honda introduced the mid-sized complement to its compact Civic -- the Honda Accord in the 1976 model year. The Accord began its life as a feature-packed vehicle for its era sporting high-end elements, such as an AM-FM stereo, rear defroster and a remote hatch release. The 2001 Accord EX came standard with a wide array of features including an AM-FM stereo with a 6-disc CD player. An anti-theft system protected the stereo by locking the stereo from working when it lost power until you entered a five-digit code. If youve lost the code, contact the dealership with the radios serial number to get the code.

Instructions

Entering the Radio Code

1

Insert the key in the Accords ignition and turn it to the "Acc" or "On" position.

2

Turn the radio on by pressing the volume button, if needed.

3

Observe as "Code" appears on the radios display.

4

Enter the five-digit code from the radio code card the dealership provided with the vehicle, by pressing the corresponding preset buttons on the radio. If entered correctly, the radio begins to play. If the radio does not play, turn the Accord off and retry from Step 3. If you do not have the five digit code, see the section titled "Obtaining a Lost Radio Code."

5

Turn the Accord off.

Obtaining a Lost Radio Code

6

Turn the Accords ignition to the "Acc" or "On" position.

7

Press and hold the number 1 and 6 preset buttons and turn on the radio by pressing the volume button on the radio.

8

Observe as four digits appear on the radios screen, make note of these numbers. After five seconds, a second set of four numbers appears on the screen, write down these numbers. All eight numbers make up the radios eight-digit serial number.

9

Take the eight-digit serial number to a Honda dealership to obtain the radio code.

The crank position sensor in a General Motors Northstar engine is part of the sensing and diagnostic system that is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM). The crank position sensor sends information to the PCM about the position of the crankshaft relative to the engine block. The PCM uses this information to determine when to actuate specific electronic components, such as the ignition. When the crank sensor fails, the engine will not start. Replacement sensors are available from Cadillac dealerships and local auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Place the vehicles transmission in the park or "P" position. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake. Let the vehicle cool for at least 60 minutes before proceeding.

2

Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery lead using a battery terminal wrench.

3

Locate the crank position sensor on right side of the engine block, approximately three inches above the oil filter housing. It is made from black plastic and is connected to the engine with a 10 mm bolt.

4

Depress the locking tab on the sensors electrical connector and unplug the connector from the sensor. Remove the bolt holding the sensor to the engine, using a 3/8-inch ratchet and a 10 mm socket. Grip the sensor with a slip-joint pliers and gently remove it using a twisting/pulling motion.

5

Lubricate the new crank sensor with a small amount of clean engine oil. Install the new sensor into the engine block using a twisting/pushing motion. Reinstall the sensors retaining bolt and reattach its electrical connector.

6

Reconnect the negative battery lead. Start the engine and verify that it operates properly. The engine should start within three seconds of cranking and run smoothly.

Removing the EGR valve from the 2.8-liter diesel engine in a Jeep Liberty can be time-consuming. Fortunately, with a little effort and a lot of patience, you can do it yourself and save on an otherwise large repair bill. The EGR valve is located on the back of the engine, just below the intake manifold on the drivers side of the engine. The valve bolts in place with four 8-millimeter bolts that are hidden below the manifold, so you will not be able to see them.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and locate the negative battery cable on the battery. Loosen the pinch bolt with a wrench then lift the cable off the battery and set it aside.

2

Position a catch basin under the passengers side of the radiator and remove the petcock from the radiator tank, allowing the coolant to drain from the system. Once the coolant has stopped draining, replace the petcock.

3

Remove the bolts from the top of the engine cover on the engine, using a socket and ratchet. Lift the cover off the engine and set it aside.

4

Locate the EGR valve on the back of the engine near the drivers side head. Remove the clamps from the cooling lines on the EGR valve then pull the two coolant lines off the valve.

5

Remove the four 8-millimeter bolts from the EGR valve with a wrench then separate the valve from the engine block. A ratcheting wrench may be necessary to remove the 8-millimeter bolts.

Depending on what year and what motor you have in your GMC Sonoma will dictate the level of difficulty and the type of catalytic converter you need for replacement. Before the year 2000, the converter was connected to the exhaust system behind the front exhaust pipe in the popular 4.3 liter engine. In the year 2000, the catalytic converter became the front exhaust pipe which is much more challenging and difficult to remove and replace.

Instructions

How to Install a Catalytic Converter in a GMC Sonoma

1

Lift the GMC Sonoma all the up on the car lift. Load all the tools and the new converter into the tool cart/tray and wheel it over near you under the Sonoma, but out of your way. Put on the safety glasses.

2

Locate and remove the oxygen sensors. In the front Y-pipe converter application, there will be three oxygen sensors. In the older kind of Sonoma, there is only one oxygen sensor. Locate the plugs for the wire and unplug them using the flathead screwdriver to press in on the clip lock. Use the ratchet and oxygen sensor socket to remove the sensors. If need be, you may have to heat the pipe up a little with the torch to extract them. Allow them to cool down if you needed the torch.

3

Screw the oxygen sensor(s) into the new converter, but apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricant on the threads first. For the Y-pipe with three sensors, make sure to put the correct sensor into the correct port. Be caul not to overtighten to prevent stripping out the threads of the sensor(s).

4

Light the torch with the striker and heat up one nut on the manifold stud at a time (for the front Y-pipe converter). When the nut is cherry red, place the pneumatic gun, extension, swivel and socket onto it and remove the nut. If the converter is connected to the front pipe, cut the three nuts and bolts with the torch on both sides of the flange, then use the hammer and punch to knock the rest of the bolt out of the flange connection.

5

Cut the two or three nuts and bolts out of the rear flange connection on the converter using the torch. Cut the bolt on both sides of the flange and knock the rest of the bolt from the flange connection using the hammer and a punch. Be caul on the last bolt as the converter will separate from the exhaust system. Put on the gloves and remove the old converter.

6

Install the new catalytic converter starting with the inlet first (closest to the motor). Install the gasket(s) first and then thread on new manifold stud bolts for the Y-pipe converter or replace the nuts and bolts on the converter connected to the front pipe. Use a bolt head and washer on one side and a lock washer and nut on the other side of the flange.

7

Tighten the nuts on the manifold with the gun or tighten the nuts and bolts on the flange connection, using the gun on one side and holding the bolt steady with a hand wrench on the other.

8

Replace the gasket and hardware on the rear connection of the catalytic converter. Place the bolt head and flat washer on one side and the lock washer and nut on the other side of the flange connection. Tighten with the gun on the nut side and hold the bolt head with a hand wrench.

9

Plug the oxygen sensor wire(s) back into the plug(s).

10

Remove the tool cart and any other debris from under the Sonoma, lower the truck and start the engine up. Raise it back up and check for any possible exhaust leaks coming from the manifold, flange or oxygen sensor connections. Tighten as needed.

The mid-size Mazda 6 was in its second generation as of 2010, having grown a bit over the previous generation of the car. There are seven trim models, with the more top-of-the-line variations equipped with niceties like alloy wheels, Bluetooth connectivity and xenon headlights. Most Mazda 6 cars, though, will have halogen bulbs. Exercise caution when changing halogen bulbs, as they are easily damaged if scratched or dropped.

Instructions

High-Beam Headlight

1

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

2

Open the hood and remove the bolts from the coolant reservoir. Using your wrench, turn the bolts counterclockwise to remove.

3

Disconnect the bulbs electrical connector. Press on the connector tab and pull downward to remove.

4

Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove the bulb. Then insert a new halogen bulb, turning clockwise to install.

5

Re-install the coolant reservoir.

Low-Beam Headlights

6

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

7

Move the steering wheel to the right if youre replacing the left-hand light and vice-versa.

8

Open the hood and remove the bulbs plastic container screws. Turn counterclockwise to remove the six screws.

9

Turn the bulb cover counterclockwise.

10

Detach the electrical connector of the bulb by pulling it to the rear.

11

Pull downward and away to remove the bulb from the spring.

12

Remove the adapter from the bulb and attach a new bulb onto the adapter.

13

Insert the bulb into the bulb socket, connecting the electrical connections.

14

Insert the bulb cover, fastening the screws clockwise.

A free flow exhaust is a type of system installed in vehicles for increased power and a sporty look. They are designed to remove engine emissions more efficiently than standard exhaust systems.

Purpose

Free flow exhaust systems are designed for looks and increased efficiency and power in vehicles. They are typically made of 100 percent stainless steel, which offers a nice sporty look. They weigh less than standard exhaust systems, which helps account for increased fuel economy and improvement in acceleration.

Process

Exhaust systems are used for removing spent gas from a vehicles engine; theore exhaust systems play a role in engine tuning and performance. A free flow system allows the spent gas to exit the vehicle more efficiently by changing the pipes used in the system and installing an intercooler between the engine and the exhaust.

Benefits

With a free flow exhaust system, a smoother removal of spent gas is offered. Because of this, vehicle owners notice an improvement in the overall way their vehicle runs. These systems promote better gas mileage and increased acceleration as well.

The flashers, also called blinkers or turn signals, as well as the hazard lights on the Ford F-150 pickup truck are all controlled by one simple relay module. If you have a front or rear flasher that isnt working, chances are you need to replace a simple five-pin relay module located on your steering column. The part costs very little, and replacing it will take just a few minutes of your time.

Instructions

1

Use a flat-head screwdriver to gently pry the clam-shell door open. The door is located under the instrument panel on the top of the steering column between the instrument panel and the steering wheel.

2

Remove the door and set it in a safe place.

3

Remove the blue five-pin relay from the column by pulling it gently from the plug.

4

Remove the screw from the top of the relay.

5

Replace the screw on the top of the relay.

6

Replace the relay with the new one (part number F65B-13350-AA). Plug the new relay in where you removed the old one.

7

Close the clam-shell door by lining it up and pressing down until it snaps in place.

The casting numbers on the block of a Ford engine help identify the specific engine. The numbers are often useful in mating cylinder heads, determining when and where the block was manufactured and into which mode of Ford it was installed. Locating the casting number is relatively easy if youre physically fit and have some dexterity. The casting number must be decoded to understand the information it contains.

Instructions

1

Angle your inspection mirror underneath the back side of the engine block, where the starter mounts to the engine. Depending on your physical size -- and the specific year, make and model of your Ford -- observation is possible from the top of the engine well. Another option is jack up the Ford up, support it on two jack stands and look for the numbers from beneath the vehicle.

2

Shine your flashlight on the inspection mirror. Illuminate the section of the block where Ford stamped the casting number. This is directly beside the starter mount, where the starter motor bolts to the engine.

3

Write down the casting number down with pen and paper.

Installation of a new catalytic converter on your Jeep Liberty will improve the engine performance of your Jeep. If the converter becomes plugged it can over heat or limit the engines ability to breathe by limiting the flow of exhaust out of the engine. The converter is an important part of the exhaust system and while they are expensive to replace, they are necessary for the engine to run properly. Be sure to allow the exhaust to cool if the Jeep has been running before you start working on it. The pipe and converter get very hot when the engine is operating.

Instructions

1

Locate the front mounting flange from the front exhaust pipe for the catalytic converter. There are two bolts that secure the flange from the converter to the flange on the pipe.

2

Position the catalytic converter so the two flanges line up, insert the gasket between the flanges and insert the retaining bolts. Install two nuts on the mounting bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet or wrench.

3

Insert the mounting rod on the converter into the hanger under the cross member located near the center of the converter. This hanger is a rubber hanger that the mounting rod slides into.

4

Slide the tail pipe onto the output pipe on the rear of the converter and install the band clamp. Tighten the clamp with a socket and ratchet until it is tight but do not over tighten it or you will crush the pipe.

5

Start the engine and check for leaks in the exhaust system. If you find a leak, tighten the clamp or bolts needed to tighten up the pipes and close the leak.

The Power Programmer III from Hypertech plugs into a vehicles diagnostic port and asks a series of engine specific yes or no questions. The Power Programmer then makes adjustments to engine settings to maximize performance.

Claims

According to the manufacturer, the Power Programmer III can add up to 120 horse power and 227 ft/lbs of torque to a diesel engine and 57 horse power 60 ft/lbs of torque to a gas engine.

Adjustments

The Power Programmer III can adjust or fine-tune an engines three-stage or duel-fuel tuning, engine rev limiter, cooling fan temperature, transmission shift points and firmness and top speed limiter. It can also make corrections to the speedometer and odometer.

Warnings & Cautions

The Power Programmer III requires a fully charged battery car battery to perform properly and the ignition must remain on. Caully read the manufacturers instructions for details. It is also important to note that the Power Programmer III does not work the same for all makes, models and engines.

Unsurprisingly, a voltmeter measures the voltage running through any object that has the ability to carry an electrical charge. Generally, voltmeters do not measure solely voltage but come as part of a multi-meter device that can be used to measure other aspects of electrical currents as well, including amps and ohms. If you need to know the voltage of a Delco alternator, you can use the voltmeter component of a multi-meter to take the measurement.

Instructions

1

Find the volt component of the multi-meter. Depending upon the multi-meter, the voltmeter component may have its own ports, or the meter may have one main input and a dial to choose the measurement that you want to take. If the multi-meter has separate ports for measuring volts, you can recognize them from the "V" that marks them. If the multi-meter has only one set of ports, turn the dial to the "V" setting to use the device as a voltmeter.

2

Plug the probes provided with the multi-meter into the appropriate ports. Test the probes by touching the tips together gently. The measurement on the multi-meter screen should not move from "0" or should move into the single digits at most. If it moves more than that, the fuse of the multi-meter is not working properly and should be replaced before testing.

3

Place the black probe of the multi-meter against the negative terminal of the Delco alternator. This terminal stays the same whether you have a negatively or positively charged alternator. It is the screw with the metal arm attached to it.

4

Touch the red probe to the positive terminal on the Delco alternator. In a negatively charged alternator, the positive terminal is the screw that does not have an insulating cover. In a positively charged alternator, the positive terminal is the red wire that stretches between two of the screws.

The original catalytic converter on the 1988 Chevy K2500 was a flat, broad, pellet-filled component. Chevy used this style converter until the mid 1990s. The bottom of the converter featured a fill plug that would often erode from exposure and leak the ceramic pellets out from inside the shell. While replacement plugs were available, most aftermarket companies replaced the converter with a canister-shaped direct-fit converter with an internal ceramic honeycombed substructure.

Instructions

1

Park the 1988 Chevy K2500 on a level surface, turn the engine off and apply the parking brake.

2

Put on the safety glasses and crawl under the passengers side of the vehicle (behind the front tire) with the shop light or a flashlight.

3

Follow the exhaust tubing on the passengers side to the engine connection. The front pipe of the K2500 features a Y-pipe connected to both the drivers side and the passengers side of the engine.

4

Follow the Y-pipe back to the next component behind it. It will either be a large, broad, flat component or a round canister with an external heat shield spot-welded to the outer shell. This component is the catalytic converter. Depending on the size of the wheel base of the K2500, behind the converter there may be a small to medium length connector pipe leading to the muffler and the tailpipe. The connector pipe routes over the rear axle and out toward the rear bumper, all on the passengers side.

If you notice that your steering wheel is loose and sloppy when you drive down the road, you may have a worn upper ball joint and upper control arm. Unlike the case with lower ball joints, which require specialty tools that are quite expensive, a home mechanic can replace the upper control arm and ball joint in part of an afternoon.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on both of the front tires. Do this before attempting to lift the vehicle off the ground or the tire will spin as you try to loosen them.

2

Raise the vehicle off the ground enough to lift the tires off the ground and place jack stands under the vehicle. Finish removing the tires once the vehicle is secure.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint using a needlenose pliers. You do not need to save the cotter pin; you will use a new one for installation.

4

Use the appropriate wrench to remove the castle nut at the top of the ball joint. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to remove the nut from the ball joint.

5

Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle using a two-jawed puller and remove the upper control arm from the vehicle.

6

Install the new upper control arm assembly into the strut tower and connect the upper ball joint into the steering knuckle.

7

Install the tires onto the front of the vehicle and lower the vehicle to the ground.

8

Torque the nuts on the control arm and front wheels once the car is lowered to the ground. Torque the upper control arm to 47 foot-pounds. Next, tighten the castle nut to 32 foot-pounds and then tighten it enough beyond that point to install the new cotter pin. All of the wheel nuts should be tightened to 80 foot-pounds of pressure.

The crankshaft position sensor -- also known as the CKP sensor --detects crankshaft position and rotation on the 2005 PT Cruiser. The sensor relays this information to the electronic control unit and helps determine ignition and fuel injection timing. Wear or damage to the crankshaft position sensor can lead to poor performance or even a non-running condition. The sensor is above the front motor mount so some disassembly is required to replace it.

Instructions

1

Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.

2

Jack the front of the vehicle up. Support the vehicle using jack stands.

3

Locate the sensor on the front of the engine just below the starter. Locate the bending strut and structural collar just below the sensor.

4

Remove the five mounting bolts from the strut, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the strut from the engine. Remove the three remaining bolts from the collar, using a ratchet and socket. Move the power steering hose aside and then remove the collar from the engine.

5

Lift up on the locking tab on the sensor electrical connector. Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor.

6

Wipe the surrounding area using a clean rag to remove any dirt or debris that may find its way into the sensor hole.

7

Remove the sensor retaining bolt, using a ratchet and socket. Pull the sensor out of its hole.

8

Lubricate the O-ring on the new sensor with clean engine oil. Insert the new sensor in the hole and push it in with a slight twisting motion. Align the sensor mount with the bolt hole and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 80 inch-pounds, using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket.

9

Install the electrical connector onto the sensor terminal. Ensure that the terminal lock snaps into position.

10

Hold the collar in its position between the transmission and the engine oil pan. Move the power steering hose into position below the collar. Install the collar-to-oil pan bolt through the forward hose support and collar bolt hole and then tighten it finger tight.

11

Place the bending strut in its position and start the upper strut-to-transaxle bolt. Do not tighten the bolt at this time.

12

Insert the lower strut-to-transaxle bolt through the strut and collar and start it. Do not tighten the bolt at this time.

13

Install the strut-to-block bolt on the passenger side corner of the strut and then tighten it finger tight.

14

Insert the collar-to-oil pan bolt through the rear power steering hose support and rear collar hole and then tighten it finger tight.

15

Tighten the three collar-to-transaxle bolts to 75 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket.

16

Install the remaining two strut-to-engine block bolts. Tighten the remaining five bolts to 45 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket.

17

Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle using a jack.

If your Saturn is experiencing failing fuel injectors, you may want to consider using a better quality gasoline. Symptoms of faulty fuel injectors include jerking movements while driving and loud knocking sounds upon acceleration. You will need to know how to properly relieve the fuel systems pressure before performing this repair procedure. Unless otherwise noted, some steps do not require tools.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Rail and Fuel Injectors

1

Relieve the fuel system pressure by removing the fuel cap.

2

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery with a wrench.

3

Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Unbolt the two mounting bolts with a socket wrench then remove the regulator.

4

Disconnect the air intake duct by detaching the connector from the intake air temperature sensor then removing the PCV hose from the duct. Unscrew and remove the hose clamps with a flat head screwdriver at both ends of the duct.

5

Remove the EVAP canister purge hose and loosen the clamp for the coolant hose from the hose guide. Remove the hose guide and separate the PCV hose from the valve cover. Set aside the hoses.

6

Unscrew and remove the two nuts from the fuel rail mounting studs with the socket wrench. Remove the engine wiring harness cover from the valve cover and push it aside.

7

Remove the fuel supply and return lines from the fuel rail by unscrewing the two line fittings with an open-end wrench. Take out the O-rings in the holes and discard them.

8

Unplug the connectors from the fuel injectors by pulling on their locks.

9

Unscrew and remove the two fuel rail mounting nuts with the socket wrench.

10

Pull out the fuel rail/injector assembly.

11

Free the injector retainers from the small lugs on both sides with a flat head screwdriver. Pull each injector out.

Installing the New Fuel Injectors

12

Install the new fuel injectors and secure them onto the fuel rail by fastening the retainers back onto the side lugs.

13

Lubricate the O-rings on each end of the injectors with clean engine oil. Insert the fuel rail/injector assembly back into the intake manifold.

14

Install the fuel rail mounting nuts and torque them to 89 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

15

Reconnect each electrical connector to the fuel injectors. Check to make sure they are securely locked on by slightly wiggling them.

16

Insert the new O-rings into the fuel line holes. Install the supply and return fuel lines onto the fuel rail and tightly screw on their fittings with the open-end wrench.

17

Position the engine wiring harness cover onto the valve cover. Tighten the mounting nuts over the studs with the socket wrench.

18

Follow Steps 4 and 5 in Section 1 to reconnect the EVAP and PCV hoses and the air duct.

19

Install the fuel pressure regulator onto the fuel rail and tighten its two mounting bolts with the socket wrench. Reattach the vacuum hose to the regulator.

20

Reconnect the negative cable onto the battery with the wrench. Replace the fuel cap.

21

Start your Saturn and check for any fuel leaks.

The rear bumper of the Ford Escort is attached with a series of bolts and screws located in the rear fender wells, inside the luggage compartment and underneath the back of the vehicle. You may need to remove the bumper because of damage or because you want to replace the bumper with a different style that fits your needs, such as a tow bar or bumper hitch.

Instructions

1

Unfasten the five screws on the inside lip of both rear fender wells in the back that are securing the rear bumper of the Escort, using a screwdriver. The rear fender well is the void area where the rear tire sits, on the back side of the car.

2

Open the rear hatch and unfasten the plastic pushpins that attach the luggage compartment rear cover to the vehicle frame by prying them off with a screwdriver. Remove the rear cover from the luggage compartment by hand. The luggage compartment of the Ford Escort is that area behind the rear seats that is used for storage instead of a trunk.

3

Locate the three bolts on both sides of the inside back panel of the luggage compartment that secure the rear bumper to the vehicle frame. Unfasten the nuts on the bolts with a socket wrench.

4

Unfasten the two nuts -- one on each side of the bumper -- underneath the rear of the vehicle that secure the rear bumper to the frame, using a socket wrench.

5

Lift the rear bumper off the frame and remove it from the Escort.

Replacing the key cylinder on the steering column of your Jeep Wrangler may be necessary if damage has occurred to the tumblers or pins inside the cylinder. A replacement cylinder is available from the Jeep dealer and can be keyed to use your existing key for a fee. The cylinder can be swapped quickly and does not require a bunch of specials tools to complete.

Instructions

1

Sit in the drivers seat of your Jeep and insert the ignition key into the cylinder. Locate the hole in the bottom panel of the steering column directly below the cylinder.

2

Insert a small screwdriver or punch into the hole in the column and push the pin inside the hole up. Turn the key and cylinder to the "On" position then pull the cylinder straight out of the column. Remove the screwdriver or punch from the hole under the column.

3

Turn the key to the "Off" position then withdraw the key from the cylinder. Insert the key into the new cylinder and turn the key to the "On "position on the new cylinder.

4

Insert the cylinder and key into the column the rotate the key to the "OFF" position. Withdraw the key from the cylinder.

The outer tie rods ends on the 1995 Honda Accord connect the steering system to the integral knuckles of the front wheels. Wear and tear on the ball sockets of the outer tie rods will eventually weaken them, causing them to become loose. This symptom will give a slight to major back-and-forth movement of the tire and compromise the tire wear and the steering of the vehicle. While replacing the outer tie rod is not overly difficult, the car should have a front-end alignment after any major steering component has been replaced.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake and loosen the lug nuts on the wheel one-half turn counterclockwise, using the breaker bar and a 19 mm wrench.

2

Hoist the vehicle up with the car jack and support the Accord onto a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the ball shaft of the outer tie rod with a pair of cutting dikes or a set of needle-nose pliers.

4

Make a mark on the threads of the inner tie rod with a permanent marker where the outer tie rod lock nut ends. This mark will keep the front-end alignment close to its original position until an alignment can be performed on the vehicle.

5

Hold the base of the outer tie rod with one wrench and turn the lock nut on the threaded shaft of the inner tie rod counterclockwise just enough to break it free.

6

Loosen the castle nut from the ball shaft of the tie rod end, at the knuckle, using the breaker bar and metric socket. Loosen the nut until it covers the top threads of the ball shaft.

7

Strike the castle nut on the ball shaft with a hammer until the ball socket of the tie rod separates from the integral knuckle. Remove the castle nut and allow the outer tie rod to drop down from the knuckle.

8

Unscrew the outer tie rod from the threads of the inner tie rod and then unscrew the lock nut from the inner tie rod.

9

Thread the new lock nut, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, onto the threads of the inner tie rod up to the permanent marker mark. Thread the replacement outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod up to the lock nut, but align the outer tie rod so the ball shaft is standing in an upward position.

10

Place the ball shaft of the tie rod through the integral knuckle. The ball shaft of the replacement tie rod will be stiff and hard to move by hand. If necessary, place the old castle nut on the threads of the new tie rod ball shaft and gently tap it to manipulate its angle until it aligns to the hole of the knuckle. Remove and discard the old castle nut.

11

Thread the replacement castle nut, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, onto the threads of the ball shaft and tighten with the breaker bar and a metric socket. Tighten the nut securely and align the notches of the castle nut to the pre-drilled hole in the top of the ball shaft.

12

Insert the replacement cotter pin, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, through the ball shaft hole and notches of the castle nut. Bend the ends of the cotter pin over the top of the nut and ball shaft with the cutting dikes or needle-nose pliers.

13

Tighten the lock nut on the inner tie rod threads to the base of the outer tie rod, using the two metric wrenches---one to hold the base of the outer tie rod and the other to tighten the nut to the base.

14

Replace the wheel and lug nuts. Snug the lug nuts tightly to the knuckle and then lower the Accord to the ground.

15

Tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern, using the torque ratchet set at 80 foot-pounds and a 19 mm socket.

Found in virtually all moving mechanisms, bearings are hardly given a thought until something starts to grind -- or falls apart. Unlike caged or roller bearings, which are enclosed in a casing, loose ball bearings float freely between metal cups, or "races." Most are commonly found in older applications, loose bearings are used to maintain proper tolerances between two or more moving pieces of a rotating part, such as steering mechanisms or wheels. Since they are not secured inside a housing, loose bearings must be inserted one at a time.

Instructions

1

Apply a generous coat of bearing grease to both sides of the bottom bearing race by using your fingers. Insert the race into position, with the ridges on the grooves facing outward. If the tolerances are so close the race will not slide in place freely, tap the race into position with a wooden dowel, of the same diameter as the race, by tapping it with a rubber mallet. Check to ensure the race is seated evenly around the entire circumference of the installation point.

2

Grease one ball bearing at a time and place each one in the groove of the race by using your fingers. Insert the bearing by using a pair of forceps or tweezers if the area is too small to reach with your fingers. Set the bottom bearing in place first, if working with a vertical surface. Stack the bearings up along each side of the race, and alternate placing bearings along the left and right sides of the race.

3

Coat the top race with grease and insert the race with its grooves facing inward, creating a channel for the bearings between the two races.

4

Place the cover plate over the outside race. Some plates will screw onto a threaded rod whereas others will free-float over the race; not all applications have cover plates. Tighten the locknut in place with a wrench.

Acetone is a multi-use solvent that is generally considered safe for humans to use. The chemical is incorporated into paint supplies and cleaners used in the auto body painting and repair industry. Compounds used at every stage of the painting and cleaning process contain at least small amounts of acetone.

Cleaning Solution

Acetone is used in cleaning solutions applied to spray guns used in auto body work. The solvent is able to break down the harsh and potentially toxic chemicals used in auto body paints. Certain states, like California, are attempting to move away from sprays and solvents containing highly volatile organic compounds. According to a 2008 study prepared for the Cal/EPAs Toxic Substances Control, the best alternative cleaning solutions included a blend of glycol and acetone.

Finishing Solution

Finishing solutions are applied to auto body paint jobs to seal the paint and keep it from flaking or cracking due to weather or temperature conditions. These compounds typically contain acetone as an active ingredient that goes on clear so the cars paint job isnt obscured. In fact, acetone sealers usually add shine to the paint. The chemical is also used in window tints.

Paint Thinner

Auto body paints are combined with acetone to thin them. This allows the paint to apply evenly to the surface without pooling too much, which can affect drying times. The chemical dissolves when the paint is heated, leaving an even coat of paint. Acetone is also used as a pre-paint cleaner to remove any grit or surface grease on auto body parts that could affect the painting process and create dimples or raised areas.

The first Dodge Rams rolled out of the factory in 1981, and Dodge has continued to improve and redesign its heavy-duty pickup truck ever since. Dodge introduced the current generation of Rams in 2009. The 2010 Ram was available in several two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims in the 1500, 2500, 3500, 4500 and 5500 weight classes. However, the toe-in specs were the same for all trims of the Ram 1500. Likewise, all other trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram shared the same toe-in specs.

Toe

The toe of a wheel ers to the angle of the wheel in relation to the vehicles centerline. If the front of a wheel is angled inward toward the centerline, then the wheel has toe-in. If the front of a wheel angles outward away from the centerline, then the vehicle has toe-out. Most vehicles are designed for the wheels to toe in slightly. Toe is the most important alignment spec in terms of tire wear. If a wheel has the toe misaligned by just a fraction of a degree, it can significantly reduce the life of a tire. The toe is adjustable on the front ends of all trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram. It is not adjustable on the rear because the Rams come with a fixed rear axle. The specs provided below apply only to the 2010 Dodge Ram and should not be used on other model years, because alignment specs can change from year to year.

The 2010 Ram 1500

The same toe-in specs apply to all two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram 1500, regardless of whether the truck came with 17-inch tires or 20-inch tires. The ideal toe-in setting is +0.1 degrees but it can vary by 0.36 degrees in either direction.

All Other Trims and Models of the 2010 Ram

All other trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram, including the Ram 2500, the Ram 3500, the Ram 3500 Heavy Duty Chassis-Cab, the Ram 4500 Heavy Duty Chassis-Cab and the Ram 5500 Heavy Duty Chassis Cab, came with the same toe-in specs. The specs were the same for Box Off and standard trims. The ideal setting for the toe-in is +0.2 degrees but it can range by 0.1 degree in either direction.

An FXST is a kind of Harley-Davidson motorcycle. F means "big engine motorcycle" and X indicates "sport." The original FX in 1971 was assembled from F and X parts. "ST" stands for "Softail," which is a suspension system without visible shock absorbers. This bike was manufactured before 2007 because starting in that year all new Harleys came equipped with fuel injection. The carburetor, or carb, is a constant-velocity Keihin carb and it is easily replaced in one lazy afternoon.

Instructions

1

Put the motorcycle in neutral and ensure the petcock is closed. Start and run the motorcycle until it coughs to a stop. Attempt to restart the motorcycle to ensure that the carburetor is completely out of gasoline.

2

Reach under the fuel tank, just in front of your left knee, and unclip the enrichener knob. Let the knob and cable hang free.

3

Loosen the air cleaner cover bolts. The air cleaner is between the cylinders and the original cleaner is either round or elliptical depending on the year of your FXST. Remove the bolts using either a Torx or Allen socket, depending on the year of your bike and whether you have already replaced this cover, and a socket wrench.

4

Pull out the two breather tubes that plug into the body of your air cleaner and let them hang free.

5

Unbolt and remove the air cleaner, which contains a metal or paper filter, using either a Torx or an Allen socket and a socket wrench.

6

Loosen the fuel line hose clamp with a flat-head screwdriver and pull this tube from the body of the carburetor.

7

Follow both throttle cables from the throttle to the carburetor throttle cam. Mark the front and back cables with masking tape and a pen, then unscrew and disconnect both cables. Let those cables hang free.

8

Unbolt and remove the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen socket and a socket wrench.

9

Rock the carburetor from side to side and pull it out of the black, rubber boot that connects the carburetor to the intake manifold. Gently pull the enrichener assembly through the engine and remove the carburetor and enrichener assembly as a unit.

10

Unscrew and remove the enrichener cable from the back of the old carburetor. Screw the enrichener cable assembly into the same location on the back of the replacement carburetor. Hand-tighten the plastic cable sealing cap.

11

Snake the enrichener knob and cable through the engine under the fuel tank. Seat the new carburetor in the intake manifold boot.

12

Replace the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen socket and socket wrench. This is the plate that actually holds the carb to the engine.

13

Replace both throttle cables on the throttle cam exactly as they were when you started. Remove the masking tape.

14

Replace the air cleaner and the air cleaner cover using either a Torx or an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Re-secure the enrichener knob into the clip on the left side of the motorcycle.

15

Replace the breather tubes. Start the bike to ensure it runs before replacing the air cleaner cover.

16

Replace the air cleaner cover using a Torx or Allen socket and socket wrench.

Bellhousings are protective covers located on the engine-side of the transmission case. Stock bellhousings are comprised of aluminum or an aluminum alloy, making them susceptible to damage from impact. Steel bellhousings have a higher tensile strength and are theore stronger than aluminum counterparts. Steel bellhousings are considered crack, chip and shatter resistant, which help reduce the chance of expensive transmission repairs and injury if the transmission fails. The installation of a steel bellhousing also adds additional protection against impact during transmission servicing and from flying road debris.

Instructions

1

Lift the car using a floor jack and place it on jack stands positioned directly under the axles. Leave the floor jack in place under the front axle for safety should the jack stands fail. Place one additional jack stand under the engine for support.

2

Drain the transmission fluid by removing the drain bolt under the transmission with a socket set. For automatic transmissions, remove the transmission pan bolts and drop the pan. Catch the oil in a drain pan and dispose of it at an auto parts store.

3

Remove the transmissions gear shifter linkages. Start by pulling the trim ring off around the shifter using a screwdriver, then disconnect the linkage. If the shifter is on the steering column, remove the linkage from the underside of the car Place any snap rings and bolts in a plastic bag and label it for easy reinstallation.

4

Disconnect the drive shaft linkages located at the differential and slide the drive shaft off the transmission. For front wheel drive transmissions, remove the CV axle linkages at the wheel hubs and slide them out of the transmission.

5

Unbolt the transmission mount and engine attachment bolts using a socket set. Place a transmission jack under the transmission before removing the last two bolts. Remove the dust shield and slave cylinder. For automatic transmissions, remove the torque converter-to-flexplate bolts.

6

Unclip sensors and wiring harness connections to the transmission. Use colored tape to label each wire and the transmission connector it clips into. Ensure no damage occurs to the wiring and repair previously damaged wiring immediately.

7

Lower the transmission, remove the release arm and pilot bushing and unbolt the bellhousing from the transmission, removing any input shaft linkages between the transmission and bellhousing. For automatic transmissions, remove the torque converter. Unbolt the bellhousing from the transmission using a socket set.

8

Attach the new bellhousing to the engine and check for alignment using a dial-indicator and make corrections specified by the bellhousing manufacturer. Once alignment is verified, attach the bell housing to the transmission and bolt it on. Reattach the torque converter or pilot bearing and release arm.

9

Lift the transmission into place in the engine bay, reinstall the dust shield and bolt the transmission to the engine using a socket set. Install the transmission wiring and sensors, and reconnect the torque converter bolts or slave cylinder. Reconnect the drive shaft or CV axles, replace the drain bolt or transmission pan, fill the transmission with fluid and reattach the shift linkage and trim ring to complete the steel bellhousing installation.

Although the 2010 Hummer H3 received a five-star rating for driver safety from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), minor manufacturing problems in older models have led to a few recalls by General Motors. The most recent recall, over hood louvers that could detach, affects 2006-2010 Hummer H3s. Registered vehicle owners should have received notice of recalls from the manufacturer.

Hood Louver

General Motors recalled 162,129 model year 2006-2010 Hummer H3 vehicles in April 2010 for a manufacturing defect that could cause the hood louver to detach. If the louver comes loose from the hood when the vehicle is in motion, it could cause a traffic accident or injury.

Air Bags

In November 2006, General Motors recalled select 2006 model year Hummer H3 vehicles for an airbag sensor problem on the passenger side. This recall affected fewer than 800 vehicles in which aftermarket leather seat covers were installed. The seat covers could interfere with the air bag sensors, potentially causing the air bags to malfunction or not deploy in the event of a crash.

Tires and Loading

More than 30,000 General Motors vehicles, including certain model year 2006 Hummer H3s, were recalled for misprints in equipment labeling that could compromise the safety of drivers and passengers. Tire and loading information labels on these Hummers contained errors that could cause the vehicles to be overloaded or tires to be improperly inflated.

The Acura brand is manufactured by Honda and was introduced in 1986. If your Acura is malfunctioning, it needs servicing or repair. Attending to any problems with your Acura will prolong the life of your car.

Instructions

1

Change a dysfunctional or dead battery on your Acura. Turn off the engine. Prop open the hood. Disconnect both battery cables, the negative cable first. Detach the clamp that fastens the battery in place. Remove the old battery. Place it on the ground beside you. Insert the new battery into the battery tray. Refasten the clamp that holds the battery in place. Clean the battery cables. Put some petroleum jelly on the ends of the cable. Reconnect the battery cables, the positive cable first. Tighten the connections using the wrench. Close the hood. Start the engine. Let the engine run for at least ten minutes.

2

Replace any blown fuses on your Acura. Turn off the engine. Prop open the hood. The fuse panel is located directly in front of the steering column. Remove the cover. The blown fuse will be blackened. Remove the fuse with your fingers. Replace the fuse with a new fuse of equal amperage. Pop the new fuse into the old slot. It should go in quite easily. Start the engine to make sure any electrical issues caused by the blown fuse have now been remedied. Replace the cover. Close the hood.

3

Go to a website that provides repair estimates such as Repairpal. Select "Acura" from the "Select Car Make" drop-down menu. Click "Get an Estimate." Enter the year and model of your Acura using the drop boxes. Click "Select Service Type." A list of service and repair issues and tasks will open. Choose the option that best relates to your car. Enter your zip code. Click "Get an Estimate." Review your results. This includes a price estimate and information related to the problem, including misdiagnoses, symptoms and background information. A list of independent auto shops and dealerships in your area will also appear on the page.

4

Contact an auto shop in your area. Give a description of your Acuras status that is as specific as possible based on your research. Make an appointment and bring your car in for repair.

The Eldorado was a line of luxury cars made by Cadillac from 1953 to 2002. The 1994 model is an eighth generation Eldorado, which includes the 1992 through 2002 models. This vehicle has an oil pump that circulates oil throughout the engine to provide lubrication to the moving parts. The only engine choice for a 1994 Cadillac Eldorado is an 8-cylinder 4.6-liter Northstar engine. The oil pump for this engine is attached to the front of the crankcase, and is accessible from the engine compartment.

Instructions

1

Allow the vehicle to sit overnight without running to ensure the engine is cold. Hot oil can cause severe burns.

2

Remove the screws that attach the front cover of the oil pump to the front of the engine with a socket wrench. Disconnect the front cover from the engine.

3

Loosen the three bolts that connect the oil pump to the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the oil pump and its spacer from the engine.

4

Mount the oil pump spacer to the new oil pump. Fasten the new oil pump to the engine with the three mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench.

5

Connect the front cover for the oil pump to the engine with the retaining screws. Tighten the screws with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

Replacing glow plugs in the Jeep Libertys 2.8-liter diesel engine is similar to changing spark plugs except there is no firing order to worry about. The glow plugs thread into the cylinder head just below the intake manifold on your Liberty and have a single wire connected to the top, providing seven volts of electricity to the plug. The plug heats up the cylinders on your diesel engine to allow faster start-ups when the engine is cold.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Liberty and locate the negative battery cable on the top of the battery. The battery sits on the drivers side of the engine compartment, right behind the drivers-side headlight assembly. Loosen the clamp bolt on the cable end with a wrench and remove the cable from the battery, isolating it from the terminals while you are working.

2

Locate the glow plug in question on the side of the cylinder head. The cylinder head is at the top of the engine assembly, running front to back along the engine block. Grasp the wire at the top of the glow plug at the boot and pull it straight off the plug. Lay the wire aside.

3

Place a socket over the glow plug, attach a ratchet, and turn the plug counterclockwise. Pull the plug out of the cylinder and discard it.

4

Caully insert the new glow plug in the cylinder head. Tighten the glow plug to 110 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Snap the wiring harness connector onto the top of the glow plug. Repeat the process for the remaining glow plugs until you have replaced all that are defective.

5

Install the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal. Tighten the clamp bolt with a wrench, making sure it is secure. Do not over-tighten it or you may damage the cable end or terminal. Close the hood of your Jeep.

Replacing the fuel/water separator on the 2.8-liter diesel engine in your Jeep Liberty is not something that you need to do regularly, but when the time comes, a new separator assembly is available from the Jeep dealer. The fuel/water separator is important, as it works to remove moisture and sediment from the diesel fuel before it enters the fuel rails and engine. Water can damage the engine and cause it to run poorly or not at all.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Isolate the negative cable from the battery while you work.

2

Locate the fuel/water separator on the firewall of your Liberty. It is to the left of the engine, directly in front of the driver. Locate the two electrical connections on the front of the separator. Depress the locking tab on the connectors and remove them from the separator body. Lay the wiring connections aside.

3

Remove the hose clamp on the large fuel line at the front of the separator using a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the hose off the fitting and push it aside. Locate the second fuel line on the passengers side of the separator. Remove the hose clamp from the line with a flat-head screwdriver and pull it off the fitting.

4

Remove the two bolts that secure the separator to the firewall of the Jeep, using a socket and ratchet. Pull the assembly off the firewall. Position the new separator on the firewall and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 63 in.-lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Connect both fuel lines to the fittings on the new separator. Attach the hose clamps and tighten them with a flat-head screwdriver. Do not overtighten them or you will damage the rubber hose and it will fail prematurely.

6

Attach the wiring harness connectors to the front of the assembly. They are different so you cannot plug them in wrong. Push the connectors in until they snap into place.

7

Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. Reattach the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench.

The Civic SI is a small sports coupe introduced by Honda in 2003. This stylish addition to the Civic line of vehicles came with optional fog lights. One of the joys of owning a sports car is being able to customize it with your own personal touches. If you are a car repair novice, but still want to experiment, a good project is to install new or upgraded aftermarket fog lights. This do-it-yourself undertaking requires nothing more than some basic tools and a fog light kit.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a flat and level surface, turn off the engine and engage the emergency brake.

2

Feel the top of the hood. If it is still hot wait about 20 minutes before beginning the installation.

3

Place a blanket on the ground beneath the front end. Lie on the blanket and slide under the car so that you can see the back of the bumper where one of the fog lights is attached. Locate the wiring harness plugged into the rear of the fog light socket. Squeeze the sides of the harness plug and pull it free.

4

Use an adjustable wrench to remove the three mounting bolts securing the fog light assembly to the front bumper. Slide the assembly out of the bumper.

5

Insert the new fog light and secure it with the bolts that came with the kit. Connect the wiring harness with the socket. Move to the other side of the vehicle and repeat the process to install the other fog light.

Aluminum is not as hard as steel. Compared to steel, aluminum alloy is much less susceptible to rust; however, it is sensitive to chemical reactions. It may form a light coating of corrosion caused by oxidation following the use of harsh degreasers. This results in the need for arduous polishing of engine parts. To prevent this, a detailer should use a mixture of water and a soap degreaser in place of chemical solvents when cleaning aluminum alloy motors.

Instructions

Clean the Motor

1

Fill the spray bottle with soap degreaser and water per the product directions.

2

Run the engine for about 30 seconds. It should be slightly warm.

3

Spray the water and degreaser mixture onto the motor, engine components and underside of the hood. Wait one to two minutes to allow the soap degreaser to soak in.

4

Use the pressure washer to spray the underside of the hood, motor and motor components. Avoid spraying water directly on electrical components.

5

Spray soap degreaser on any remaining dirty spots. Scrub stubborn grime with the toothbrush.

6

Rinse the engine with the water hose.

7

Dry the motor, wires and other components with shop towels or rags. Finish drying by starting the motor.

The Accord is a mid-size car manufactured by Honda since 1976 and is still in production as of 2010. The 1990 model has a four-cylinder, 2.2L engine with electronic fuel injection. This requires the fuel pump to deliver fuel to the injectors under high pressure. The fuel pump in the 1990 Honda Accord attaches directly to the fuel tank, so you must disconnect the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench, and loosen the filler cap for the fuel tank. Locate the fuel pressure release valve on the fuel rail. Hold the banjo bolt for the release valve with a 6 mm closed wrench. Wrap a shop rag around the service bolt on top of the banjo bolt. Loosen the service bolt by one complete turn with an open-end wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the service bolt to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

2

Block the front wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle on jack stands. Loosen the drain bolt of the fuel tank and drain the fuel into a container approved for gasoline. Slide the clamps on the fuel hoses back and disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and remove the nuts on the fuel tank retaining straps with a socket wrench. Lower the floor jack and remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel pump with a socket wrench and remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

3

Install the new fuel pump onto the fuel tank ensuring that you seat it into its proper position. Tighten the mounting bolts evenly to a torque of 48 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the fuel tank and tighten the nuts on the restraining strap to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

4

Remove the service bolt on the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure regulator and plug the open end of the hose. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the pressure regulator.

5

Start the engine and note the reading on the fuel pressure gauge while the engine is idling. The fuel pressure in a 1990 Honda Accord should be in the range of 36 to 41 psi. Check for a clogged or pinched fuel return hose if the pressure is too high. Look for leaks in the fuel line, a faulty pressure regulator or a clogged fuel filter if the pressure is too low.

6

Wrap a shop rag around the fitting for the pressure gauge. Loosen the fitting slowly, until you can remove the pressure gauge. Place new washers on the service bolt and tighten it to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

The Ford Ranger is a compact pickup truck manufactured by the Ford Motor Company since 1983. The 1991 model has a choice of several engines, including a four-cylinder, 2.3-liter engine. The oil pump circulates oil through the engine to keep it lubricated. The oil pump in a 1991 Ford Ranger with a 2.3-liter engine is on the front of the engine and is driven by the timing belt.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from starting the engine inadvertently. Remove the timing belt from its pulley and detach the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor on the camshaft.

2

Insert a pry bar through the hole in the oil pump sprocket to prevent it from turning. Remove the mounting bolt for the oil pump sprocket with a socket wrench and disconnect the sprocket.

3

Remove the mounting bolt for the camshaft position sensor with the socket wrench and disconnect the sensor. Remove the four mounting bolts for the oil pump and detach the oil pump from the front of the engine. Discard the gasket for the oil pump.

4

Clean the mating surfaces on the oil pump gasket with a shop rag and lubricate the new gasket with clean engine oil. Install the new oil pump and gasket and torque the mounting bolts for the oil pump to between 90 and 123 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the camshaft position sensor and torque its mounting bolts to between 45 and 61 inch-pounds with the torque wrench. Install the oil pump sprocket and tighten its mounting bolts to between 30 and 40 foot-pounds.

6

Connect the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor and install the timing belt. Reattach the cable to the negative battery terminal with the socket wrench. Add 8 ounces of engine oil to prime the oil pump.

The Toyota Tacoma is a truck designed to work well with hauling trailers. Like any vehicle on the road, the truck and the trailer must have proper tail light illumination for overall safety, but there can be electrical problems.

Function

A trailer, attached to a Toyota Tacoma, uses a wiring harness converter box for its extra electrical needs. Without this power supply, the Tacoma could possibly have electrical failure from the power surge load.

Considerations

For model years 1999 to 2000, the Toyota Tacoma had a recall of its converter box. With its improper sealing, the box was susceptible to water infiltration, causing an electrical short and no power to the trailer lighting system. Toyota replaced the box and rearranged its placement on the vehicle to prevent excess water exposure.

Significance

Make sure that the lighting system is properly grounded to the frame of the Tacoma. Without a secure ground, the lighting system can malfunction by surging when both the vehicle and trailer have their brakes applied.

Boating has become a popular pastime for many people. With the use of boats as a holiday, correct maintenance of the boat trailer is needed to ensure continual transportation. With the interaction with salt water, brakes on the trailer can become damaged. Contamination of the brake fluid will cause the brakes to not perform to the required standard. If this occurs, you must bleed your brakes, and replace the fluid to ensure they work correctly. This process should be carried out on a regular basis.

Instructions

1

Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid.

2

Insert a bleeder hose on the bleeder screw of the wheel cylinder of the furthest brake away from the master cylinder. Place the other end of the hose into a glass container of brake fluid.

3

Loosen the brake bleeder screw. Have a helper depress the rod assembly with a slotted screwdriver. This will apply force to the front of the coupler case assembly, forcing out brake fluid and any air bubbles in it. Look for bubbles in the fluid in the glass container.

4

Remove the hose and securely tighten the bleeder screw. Repeat the process on all of the brakes. Make sure the master cylinder does not get less than half full.

5

Refill the master cylinder with brake fluid once the process is complete. Check that the brakes on your boat trailer are working correctly before continual use.

A faulty drain cock or petcock on a 2007 Jeep Liberty could result in a radiator leak, an overheated engine and costly repairs. The petcock is a small valve located on the lower left side of the radiator. The petcock threads into the face of the radiator tank and replacing it is a fairly simple task that requires few tools. Make sure to drain the radiator before you remove the petcock to avoid spilling coolant.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and remove the radiator cap from the radiator. Set the cap aside then slide a jack under the front axle and raise the Jeep off the ground. Place a set of jack stands under the Jeep to support it.

2

Slide a section of rubber tubing onto the drain cock and place a drain pan below it. Open the drain cock with a wrench and allow the coolant to drain from the system. Spin the drain cock out of the radiator with a wrench and thread the new on in place, tightening it with the wrench. Make sure the drain is closed.

3

Raise the front of the Jeep off the jack stands then remove the stands from under the truck. Remove the drain pan from under the truck and lower the truck to the ground.

4

Fill the radiator with coolant then place the cap on the radiator. Open the pressure bottle and fill it with coolant until it reaches the full line on the bottle. Start the engine and turn the heat selector to on. Allow the Jeep to run until it reaches normal operating temperature, about five to 10 minutes.

5

Recheck the coolant level in the pressure bottle and add coolant until it reaches the full mark again. Continue checking and filling the bottle until the level no longer falls with the engine running.

6

Recheck the coolant level after several days of normal driving. Add additional coolant as needed at that time.