Wednesday, September 3, 2014
How Do I Remove a Dodge Ram Shifter Boot
Removal of the shifter boot in your Dodge Ram truck allows you to access the four bolts on top of the transmission retaining the shifter assembly to the transmission. The rubber boot may crack over time and require replacement as well. If this is the case, you can get a replacement from the dealer or through a salvage yard. If you remove the shifter boot and intend to reuse it, use care so you do not rip it as you pull it off the shifter shaft.
Instructions
- 1
Sit in the seat of your Dodge, sliding it all the way back to expose the shifter boot on the floor of the truck. Locate the metal ring on the floor surrounding the shifter boot.
2Grasp the shifter knob on top of the shifter assembly, turn it counterclockwise to loosen it and remove it from the shifter shaft. Set the knob aside in a safe spot so you can put it back later.
3Locate the screws in the metal ring on the floor around the shifter boot. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver, and set them aside.
4Lift the ring, and pull the boot up the shaft. Pull the entire boot assembly off the top of the shifter shaft as a unit.
How to Check the AC on a Car
Car air conditioner systems have multiple parts and if any of them malfunction your air conditioner may stop working properly. If you find your cars air conditioning system is not producing the cool air it used to, there are a number of simple ways to investigate the cause of the problem. Most air conditioner malfunctions occur due to a lack of rigerant, sometimes caused by leaks in the air conditioning unit.
Instructions
Check the Refrigerant Level
- 1
Turn off your car, then open the hood and locate your air conditioning unit. Air conditioning units are located at various places depending on the type of car you own. If you have trouble finding it, consult your car manual. The unit will have a compartment for the rigerant and a fan system.
2Connect the AC pressure gauge to the side port of the air conditioning unit. Turn on the car and allow the engine to run for a few minutes.
3Depress the accelerator. If the AC pressure gauges meter dips down when you accelerate, there is not enough rigerant in the vehicle.
Check for Leaks
- 4
Visually inspect the air conditioning unit with your car running. Check to see if the compressor is cycling and if the fan belt seems work.
5Inject a small amount of auto-safe florescent dye into the air conditioning unit. This florescent dye is available at most auto parts stores and allows you to see any leaks or damage in the air conditioner unit. Follow the directions for insertion on the can.
6Visually inspect the air conditioner unit for any holes or leaks in the pipes, tubes or compressors. The florescent dye will cover any holes or cracks, making them easy to spot.
7Fix cracks or holes before adding more rigerant to prevent pollution and damage to your vehicle.
Wednesday, August 27, 2014
How to Reset the Honda Code

You can reset the computer codes on your Honda right from your home garage, saving time and money. The trouble codes are sent to the On-Board Diagnostics computer (OBD) from sensors positioned throughout the car. These codes pinpoint the service needs of the vehicle. Read the codes using a handheld computerized device called an OBD scan tool. Once the codes have been read and the repairs done, clear the codes using the OBD tool. This will reset the computer and shut off the lights.
Instructions
- 1
Find a port on the underside of the drivers side dash that is the same size and shape as the connective end of the OBD scan tool. Plug the scan tool into this port.
2Put the key into the Hondas ignition and turn it to the "On" position, taking care not to crank the engine. This will power on the scan tool.
3Wait while the scan tool reads the codes. Find a command on the scan tool that says "Clear Codes" or something similar. When the main menu reappears, the codes have been cleared.
4Unplug the scan tool and start the engine. Verify that all warning and service lights have shut off.
Saturday, June 7, 2014
How to Set Bearing Clearances When Engine Rebuilding
When rebuilding an engine, the clearance between the main bearings and the crankshafts main bearing journals are critical. Too much clearance results in engine knocks, while not enough clearance results in burned bearings because they cannot get proper lubrication. These clearances are especially important to measure and adjust after machining the crankshaft to remove imperfections. Although it sounds complicated, measuring the clearances and adjusting them to specifications is really quite simple.
Instructions
- 1
Dip a set of standard size main bearings in engine oil and slip them into the block and main bearing caps.
2Set the crankshaft in the block, ensuring that the main bearing journals of the crankshaft sit on the main bearings in the block.
3Smear a light coating of grease across the center of the bearing journals on the crankshaft. Put a string of Plastigauge in the grease on each main bearing journal. The grease will keep the Plastigauge in place.
4Install each bearing cap in its original position, thread the bearing cap bolts into the block through the bearing caps. Tighten the bearing caps with any tools necessary from a toolkit. Torque the main bearing cap bolts with a torque wrench.
5Remove the main bearing caps, one bearing cap at a time. Measure the Plastigauge with the built in scale on the Plastigauge packaging. Subtract the recommended factory main bearing clearance from the Plastigauge reading. The result will be the size of the oversize bearing needed for that particular main bearing journal. Repeat for all main bearing caps.
6Remove the crankshaft. Slip the appropriate over-sized bearing in the block required for each crankshaft journal, depending on their individual Plastigauge readings, after dipping them in motor oil. Slide the other half of the bearing into the main bearing cap after dipping it in motor oil. Plastigauge each bearing again to ensure all bearing clearances are correct before proceeding any further. Adjust the bearing sizes as needed.
Friday, June 6, 2014
How to Replace a Catalytic Converter on a Toyota Tercel
The first thing you can do to replace the catalytic converter in your Toyota Tercel is forget about the cheaper universal fit catalytic converter at the auto parts stores. Although this may seemingly save you money for the part, youre going to have to buy adapters or figure out how to make that universal fit converter fit like a direct fit converter. A direct fit converter for a Tercel will have a two-point flange on either side and will do just as its label describes: fit directly. In the long run it will save you time, money, and will work better for your Tercel since it was specifically designed for it.
Instructions
- 1
Lift the Toyota Tercel on a car lift all the way up.
2Put on the cutting glasses, and light the acetylene torch using a striker. Cut the bolts and nuts from the catalytic converter from the flange(s) on the converter side. This way you will not incur damage to the flanges bolted to the converter flanges. Cut the bolt heads (with the torch) or the nuts flush to the converter flange.
3Turn the torch off, switch over to safety glasses, and knock out the bolts from the converter side of the flanges using the hammer and a long stemmed punch. If they do not punch through, you may need to relight the torch and cut into the bolt hole a little deeper.
4Remove the old converter.
5Pick the old gaskets off of the pipe flanges on both side using a pick or awl.
6Clean the surface of the flat part of the pipe flanges on both sides using an angled die grinder with a sanding disk.
7Place the new gaskets onto the small pipe outlet protruding from the pipe flanges.
8Check the exhaust flow of the new catalytic converter. It will be stamped on the shell or shields of the converter and be easy to see. There will be an arrow pointing in the direction of the exhaust flow or an A and B marking. A would indicate towards the front of the motor, and B would indicate towards the back of the Tercel.
9Attach the converter flanges to the pipe flanges and place the bolts into the flanges (in any direction) in this fashion: bolt head with a flat washer through the flanges, then a lock washer and nut.
10Tighten the bolts and nuts holding one end with a wrench and tightening with an air ratchet. Tighten each bolt a little bit, switch to the next one, and continue this pattern until all four nuts and bolts have seated the flanges tight together.
11Remove tools and lower the Tercel on the lift. Start it up, raise it up again, and check for any possible leaks coming from the flange connections. If so, tighten the bolts some more.
How to Reset an Oil Light on a Chevrolet Truck

The General Motors Oil Life Monitor System first appeared in GM trucks in the 2000 model year. The system measures the remaining service life of an engines motor oil based on several factors, including the number of engine starts, miles driven at operating temperature and total hours of engine operation. The Oil Life Monitor System determines intervals between oil changes based on operating conditions. You should reset the oil light to initiate a service interval after you change the oil.
Instructions
- 1
Turn the ignition key to the "on" position.
2Depress the accelerator pedal three times to the floor in rapid succession within five seconds. Turn the ignition key off and wait for ten seconds.
3Turn the ignition key to the "Start" position, and start the engine. The Oil Life Monitor system has been reset.
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 1990 Ford F 150 Lariat
The water pump in a 1990 Ford F-150 Lariat keeps the engine cool by circulating water and coolant throughout the engine. A malfunctioning water pump can cause the engines temperature to increase, even when the radiator has sufficient coolant. This may eventually result in permanent damage to the engine. The pump attaches to the timing chain cover on the front of the engine block. You will need to drain the cooling system when replacing the pump.
Instructions
- 1
Position a sealable container under the radiator drain hole and remove the drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container. Seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.
2Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Disconnect the shroud from the radiator. Detach the radiator hose, bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the drive belt and the cooling fan assembly, including the fan spacer and pulley.
3Remove the alternator mounting bolts with a socket wrench, and move the alternator out of the way to access the water pump. You may also need to remove the power steering pump bracket if the vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the pump from the timing chain cover. Discard the water pump gasket.
4Apply a thin layer of sealer to the new gasket. Install the new pump and gasket to the timing chain cover. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.
5Repeat steps two and three in reverse order to complete the installation of the new water pump. Replace the coolant in the radiator.