Fix It

When rebuilding an engine, the clearance between the main bearings and the crankshafts main bearing journals are critical. Too much clearance results in engine knocks, while not enough clearance results in burned bearings because they cannot get proper lubrication. These clearances are especially important to measure and adjust after machining the crankshaft to remove imperfections. Although it sounds complicated, measuring the clearances and adjusting them to specifications is really quite simple.

Instructions

1

Dip a set of standard size main bearings in engine oil and slip them into the block and main bearing caps.

2

Set the crankshaft in the block, ensuring that the main bearing journals of the crankshaft sit on the main bearings in the block.

3

Smear a light coating of grease across the center of the bearing journals on the crankshaft. Put a string of Plastigauge in the grease on each main bearing journal. The grease will keep the Plastigauge in place.

4

Install each bearing cap in its original position, thread the bearing cap bolts into the block through the bearing caps. Tighten the bearing caps with any tools necessary from a toolkit. Torque the main bearing cap bolts with a torque wrench.

5

Remove the main bearing caps, one bearing cap at a time. Measure the Plastigauge with the built in scale on the Plastigauge packaging. Subtract the recommended factory main bearing clearance from the Plastigauge reading. The result will be the size of the oversize bearing needed for that particular main bearing journal. Repeat for all main bearing caps.

6

Remove the crankshaft. Slip the appropriate over-sized bearing in the block required for each crankshaft journal, depending on their individual Plastigauge readings, after dipping them in motor oil. Slide the other half of the bearing into the main bearing cap after dipping it in motor oil. Plastigauge each bearing again to ensure all bearing clearances are correct before proceeding any further. Adjust the bearing sizes as needed.

The first thing you can do to replace the catalytic converter in your Toyota Tercel is forget about the cheaper universal fit catalytic converter at the auto parts stores. Although this may seemingly save you money for the part, youre going to have to buy adapters or figure out how to make that universal fit converter fit like a direct fit converter. A direct fit converter for a Tercel will have a two-point flange on either side and will do just as its label describes: fit directly. In the long run it will save you time, money, and will work better for your Tercel since it was specifically designed for it.

Instructions

1

Lift the Toyota Tercel on a car lift all the way up.

2

Put on the cutting glasses, and light the acetylene torch using a striker. Cut the bolts and nuts from the catalytic converter from the flange(s) on the converter side. This way you will not incur damage to the flanges bolted to the converter flanges. Cut the bolt heads (with the torch) or the nuts flush to the converter flange.

3

Turn the torch off, switch over to safety glasses, and knock out the bolts from the converter side of the flanges using the hammer and a long stemmed punch. If they do not punch through, you may need to relight the torch and cut into the bolt hole a little deeper.

4

Remove the old converter.

5

Pick the old gaskets off of the pipe flanges on both side using a pick or awl.

6

Clean the surface of the flat part of the pipe flanges on both sides using an angled die grinder with a sanding disk.

7

Place the new gaskets onto the small pipe outlet protruding from the pipe flanges.

8

Check the exhaust flow of the new catalytic converter. It will be stamped on the shell or shields of the converter and be easy to see. There will be an arrow pointing in the direction of the exhaust flow or an A and B marking. A would indicate towards the front of the motor, and B would indicate towards the back of the Tercel.

9

Attach the converter flanges to the pipe flanges and place the bolts into the flanges (in any direction) in this fashion: bolt head with a flat washer through the flanges, then a lock washer and nut.

10

Tighten the bolts and nuts holding one end with a wrench and tightening with an air ratchet. Tighten each bolt a little bit, switch to the next one, and continue this pattern until all four nuts and bolts have seated the flanges tight together.

11

Remove tools and lower the Tercel on the lift. Start it up, raise it up again, and check for any possible leaks coming from the flange connections. If so, tighten the bolts some more.

The General Motors Oil Life Monitor System first appeared in GM trucks in the 2000 model year. The system measures the remaining service life of an engines motor oil based on several factors, including the number of engine starts, miles driven at operating temperature and total hours of engine operation. The Oil Life Monitor System determines intervals between oil changes based on operating conditions. You should reset the oil light to initiate a service interval after you change the oil.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition key to the "on" position.

2

Depress the accelerator pedal three times to the floor in rapid succession within five seconds. Turn the ignition key off and wait for ten seconds.

3

Turn the ignition key to the "Start" position, and start the engine. The Oil Life Monitor system has been reset.

The water pump in a 1990 Ford F-150 Lariat keeps the engine cool by circulating water and coolant throughout the engine. A malfunctioning water pump can cause the engines temperature to increase, even when the radiator has sufficient coolant. This may eventually result in permanent damage to the engine. The pump attaches to the timing chain cover on the front of the engine block. You will need to drain the cooling system when replacing the pump.

Instructions

1

Position a sealable container under the radiator drain hole and remove the drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container. Seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Disconnect the shroud from the radiator. Detach the radiator hose, bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the drive belt and the cooling fan assembly, including the fan spacer and pulley.

3

Remove the alternator mounting bolts with a socket wrench, and move the alternator out of the way to access the water pump. You may also need to remove the power steering pump bracket if the vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the pump from the timing chain cover. Discard the water pump gasket.

4

Apply a thin layer of sealer to the new gasket. Install the new pump and gasket to the timing chain cover. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Repeat steps two and three in reverse order to complete the installation of the new water pump. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

The 1998 Dodge pickup uses a crank sensor to feed detailed information to the power train control module to indicate the current position of the crankshaft as it rotates, as well as the crankshafts revolutions per minute (rpm). The crankshaft position sensors data determines when to fire the fuel injectors. On gasoline engines, it also determines when to fire the ignition coil to light the fuel-air mixture. Intermittent problems with the crankshaft position sensor cause hesitations and stalling of the vehicle. A continuous error with the crank sensor will prevent the vehicle from starting. Testing the crankshaft position sensor requires access to the sensor and plug.

Instructions

Gasoline Engines

1

Set the parking brake of the 1998 Dodge pickup truck. Pull the hood release handle. Open the hood.

2

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Loosen the 10 mm retaining nut on the battery cable clamp using a 10 mm wrench. Pry the battery cable off the negative battery post by twisting side to side by hand. The negative battery post has a "-" label next to it.

3

Stand on the passenger side of the truck. Place the work light next to the exhaust manifold as close as possible to the firewall.

4

Lean over the fender. Extend the telescoping inspection mirror in between the back of the cylinder head and the firewall.

5

Angle the mirror to inspect the edge of the transmission bell housing where it meets the engine block. A steel bracket secured by two 10 mm bolts with a three-wire harness retains the crankshaft position sensor, which reads gaps in a ring of the flywheel.

Diesel Engines

6

Open the hood of the 1998 Dodge pickup, and disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10 mm wrench.

7

Lie down face up on an automotive creeper, and slide under the drivers side of the vehicle just behind the tire, taking the wrench and the trouble light with you.

8

Hang an automotive trouble light underneath the vehicle.

9

Remove the three 10 mm bolts retaining the starter to the transmission bell housing using a 10 mm wrench. Remove the starter.

10

Look directly between the engine block and the location from which you removed the starter. The crankshaft position sensor is a black plastic sensor with an aluminum retaining bracket held in place by a single 10 mm bolt. The crank sensor has a three-wire harness plugged into it.

Engine problems in Jeep Liberties have led to a safety recall due to the possibility of engine fires. On July 2, 2004, DaimlerChrysler Corporation and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration announced a recall of 1,600 Jeep Liberty vehicles for engine problems.

Engine Defect

Certain Jeep Liberty sport utility vehicles equipped with 3.7L engines were recalled for engine-related manufacturing defects that could lead to serious problems. Two valve cover studs on these vehicles could interfere with the fuel injector and alternator wiring harness, according to NHTSA.

Safety Risk

Due to this safety hazard, the NHTSA warns that a fire could start under the hood as a result of damage to the alternator wiring harness. Registered vehicle owners were notified of the safety recall beginning July 19, 2004, and instructed on where to bring the vehicles for repair to avoid the risk of a fire.

Solution

Authorized dealers were instructed to add protective caps to the valve cover studs and re-route the affected wiring harness to provide clearance, according to the manufacturer and NHTSA. Consumers who purchased second-hand vehicles or who are otherwise concerned about whether they may have been affected by the Jeep Liberty engine-related recall may contact the NHTSA for more information. Refer to recall number 04V337000.

Honda produced the F22A6 for use in the Honda Accord during the years 1991 through 1993. The Honda Accord was manufactured during these years as a coupe, sedan and a wagon in trim levels that included the DX, SE, LX and EX. Most Accords during these years were manufactured with manual transmissions, although the 1991 Accord SE sedan and 1992 Accord SE sedan and coupe used an automatic transmission.

General

The F22A6 is an in-line four-cylinder engine built in a single overhead cam configuration. In the 1991 to 1993 Honda Accord, it was configured as a front-wheel-drive engine. In the various trim levels, it achieved 19 to 22 mpg in the city, 25 to 28 mpg on the highway, and 21 to 24 mpg combined.

Displacement

The F22A6 has a displacement of 2,156 cubic centimeters or 132 cubic inches, and was listed as a 2.2-liter engine. The cylinder bore measures 85 millimeters and the piston stroke 95 millimeters with a compression ratio of 8.8:1.

Power

Basic engine horsepower of the F22A6 without accessories is listed at 140 horsepower at 5,600 rpm. Installed in the Accord, it delivers 125 horsepower to the wheels at 5,200 rpm. The F22A6 is capable of 142 foot-lbs. of torque at 5,400 rpm but in the Accord delivers 137 foot-lbs. at 4,000 rpm.