Fix It

Rebuilding a small engine can be more cost-effective than replacing it. To determine if the small engine is suitable for rebuilding, consider how serious the damage is, the amount of wear on the engine and what parts need to be replaced. Youll also need to make sure you have the right tools on hand to do the job.

Basic Tools

The basic tools and equipment needed to rebuild an engine include a set of hand tools, such as screwdrivers and wrenches; a torque wrench; feeler gauges; a ring compressor and a ring expander. You can also simplify the task of rebuilding a small engine by purchasing the parts you will need in an engine kit. A kit comes with bearings, pistons, rings, gear set, timing chain, gaskets, valve seals, camshaft, oil pump, lifters, and other necessary parts.

Crankshaft Bearings

Rebuilding a small engine will most likely require you to install new crankshaft bearings. As you detach the old bearings, determine if they are excessively damaged. If they have scoring, debris, dirt embedded on them, flaking or pitting, then you may need a new set.

Piston Rings

Oil burning and low compression are indications of worn rings. To restore the compression in the engine, this means you must replace the piston rings. Replacement rings are available in different sizes and materials. Most rings are made of cast iron, although there are engines that have steel rings. Rings can come plain-faced, with a molybdenum inlay, chrome-plated, or nitrated. When purchasing new rings, you should try to get them as close to the original rings as you can. Take the original rings with you when you buy new ones to make this task easier.

Camshaft

When replacing the camshaft, you can install either a performance camshaft or a stock replacement. Performance camshafts provide increased duration and lift for additional power. You should follow the recommendations of the camshaft supplier for the proper duration and lift.

The 22RE engine is a four-cylinder 2.4-liter engine that Toyota manufactured from 1983 to 1995. It appears in a variety of Toyota vehicles during this period, such as the Toyota Pickup. The 22RE has a single overhead camshaft, and uses a timing chain to connect the crankshaft with the camshaft. The procedure for replacing the timing chain for a 22RE is generally the same for all vehicles from 1983 to 1988.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator, and store it for later use. Remove the radiator from the vehicle.

2

Remove the alternator from the engine with a socket wrench. Disconnect the oil pan. Remove the mounting bolts, drive belt and hoses from the air pump, if your vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the air pump and its bracket from the engine.

3

Disconnect the water pump assembly and cooling fan from the vehicle with a socket wrench. Remove the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley, and detach the pulley with a gear puller.

4

Disconnect the water bypass line and the fan belt adjusting bar. Detach the outlet line from the heater. Remove the mounting bolts for the timing chain cover with a socket wrench, and disconnect the cover.

5

Detach the timing chain from the damper of the camshaft, and detach the timing chain from the camshaft sprocket. Remove the camshaft sprocket from the camshaft. Pull the crankshaft sprocket from the crankshaft. Disconnect the spline for the oil pump from the crankshaft.

6

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the key on the crankshaft points straight up, and mount the crankshaft sprocket onto the crankshaft. Place the new timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, and align the single bright link on the timing chain with the crankshaft sprockets timing mark.

7

Place the timing chain on the camshaft sprocket. Mount the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft so that the camshafts timing mark is between the two bright links on the timing chain.

8

Install the oil pump spline to the crankshaft. Mount the timing chain gasket to the engine block, and take up the slack in the timing chain by turning the camshaft sprocket counterclockwise with a socket wrench.

9

Connect the timing chain cover, and use a torque wrench to tighten the 8mm bolts to 9 foot-pounds. Torque the 10mm mounting bolts to 29 foot-pounds. Coat the gaskets for the timing chain cover and oil pan with sealer. Connect the fan belt adjusting bar, and tighten its bolt to 9 foot-pounds.

10

Attach the water bypass line. Mount the pulley onto the crankshaft, and tighten the mounting bolt. Connect the water pump and compressor for the air conditioner with a socket wrench. Install the oil pan, radiator and cylinder head in that order.

11

Replace the oil and coolant to their proper levels. Start the vehicle and check for fluid leaks.

A U joint, or universal joint, is a type of connection used in many applications, but primarily in a car or trucks drivetrain. The universal joint takes its name from the ability of the joint to move in any direction.

Locating the U Joint

Most rear-wheel drive and four-wheel drive trucks have two universal joints on each end of the driveshaft. The driveshaft runs from the transmission to the rear differential and works to convey power from the engine to the wheels.

U Joint Appearance

The universal joint itself is cross-shaped, but when connected, the joint is identified by the U-shaped end of the driveshaft where it connects to the U-shaped end of the transmission and rear differential.

Common Problems

As a universal joint wears out, it often will make a metallic thump when the truck is placed into drive or reverse. This is due to the driveshaft taking up the slack in the joint. Worn universal joints also may cause the driveshaft to spin out of balance. An out of balance driveshaft may vibrate when the transmission is engaged.

Adding exhaust headers may be the single easiest accessory you can add to improve engine performance. When working with modified cars and motorcycles, you may find that no company manufactures a header for your vehicle. With a few parts, you can build your own exhaust headers for your project.

Instructions

1

Take stock of what is already in your car. The exhaust header depends on your transmission, body type (or what different pieces make up your cars body), input shafts and suspension among other things.

2

Explore the interior of your car before you start. Installing headers require quite a bit of engine disassembly for most models. You certainly dont want to get your engine out with no idea how to put it all back together again.

3

Buy header kits that contain all the parts you need to custom build headers for your exhaust system. Most kits include properly bent U-bends and J-bends, collectors, reducers, straight tubing, O2 bungs and flanges. Each piece needs to fit your cars build. Each kit fits your cylinder head.

4

Save some time welding with a partially assembled header. Have the tubes shipped tacked to the flanges, so you can finish the welding yourself. This allows for last-minute customization without building the entire header from scratch. To save more time, choose kits or parts with tubes partially welded in place.

5

Look for quality materials when choosing pipes, collectors and flanges to avoid warping and excess movement. When using older car parts, try to find pieces that are not misshapen or rusted in any way.

6

Create the desired balance between performance and looks. Custom headers add a unique dimension to hot rods and racecars. Lake pipes, which run alongside the car, are popular choices to add show appeal.

7

Grind the welds smooth for a polished finish and the best performance. This often ends up being the most time-consuming part of the project, so you may want to decide just how much time you want to spend trying to create perfection. A racecar will need smoother heads than a show car that is rarely driven fast.

The 2011 Honda CR-V LX is a four-door sport utility vehicle. The CR-V is equipped with a 2.4L four-cylinder engine. It includes many different standard features such as a height adjustable drivers seat, reclining rear seats, remote power door locks, power mirrors, cruise control, 17-inch steel all season wheels, a rear liftgate door, tilt and telescopic steering wheel and 12-volt front and rear outlets. The CR-Vs complex makeup of parts and systems can make it challenging to troubleshoot a problem with the vehicle. One way to locate the problem is by looking over general troubleshooting tips.

Instructions

1

Check the rear brake caliper when the CR-V pulls to the left or right while you are driving. The caliper could be sticking. The hardware mounting brackets could also be stuck. Look also at the brake hoses of the vehicle to see if any of them have collapsed. The front brake caliper that is on the opposite side of the direction the vehicle pulls towards when you are driving may also be faulty or damaged and not working properly. The steering gear may also be worn out or one or more of the coil springs are broken or weak.

2

Find the PCV valve inside the engine of your CR-V and check whether it is plugged or damaged in any way when you see excessive smoke coming from the exhaust of the vehicle while you are driving. The fuel injectors may also be dirty or burned. The amount of fuel being inserted into the combustion chamber by the fuel injectors may also need to be adjusted depending on whether too much fuel or too little is being injected.

3

Examine the power steering hose when it sounds as if an unusual amount of air is being sucked into the engine compartment when you turn the front wheels to the left or right. The power steering hose could have a loose return line clamp or there may be an air leak between the power steering pump and the reservoir. The power steering pump could also be low on power steering fluid.

4

Inspect the fuel line assembly when you smell gas fumes inside the passenger compartment of the CR-V while you are driving. There may be one or more fuel line connectors that are loose or a fuel line may be damaged and leaking gasoline. The fuel filter may also be leaking or the fuel tank could be damaged or punctured. Look also at the carburetor and make sure it is not dirty or broken and check the fuel injectors to ensure that they are clean and still working correctly.

Having a key cut for your Ford car can be tricky if you dont have another key to use as a template. When you need to have a key cut and dont have another key to work from, you still have practical options. Ford codes the car keys to the ignition tumbler. That coding is available to Ford Parts managers and service managers. If you need to have a new key cut for your Ford, and you have access to a Ford dealership, getting a key is a snap.

Instructions

1

Locate your nearest Ford dealership. If youre not sure where it is, navigate your web browser to ford.com and click the "Locate A Dealer" link at the top of the web page. Input your zip code in the search field and click "search" to see a display of nearby Ford dealerships.

2

Go to the Ford Dealers Parts Department with your Ford Cars VIN number, a state-issued ID and proof of vehicle ownership.

3

Request to have a key cut for your Ford car. The Parts or Service manager will need to see the VIN number in order to pull up the key code. Ford requires all dealership personal to verify your identity and confirm that you own the car before cutting a key; this policy is to prevent theft.

4

Your next step? Pick up your new key.

When buying an alternator, or other car part, many consumers are surprised to learn that they are charged a core deposit. However, the deposit is returned when the old alternator is returned to the parts store.

How it Works

When buying a new alternator, the buyer pays the price of the alternator plus a deposit. After the new alternator is put onto the car, the buyer can exchange the old alternator for the deposit.

Conditions

The conditions for the old alternator to be accepted will vary depending on store policy. Information on the core return should be given at the time of purchase and is often included on the receipt. Most cores must be returned in rebuildable condition, within a set amount of time and in the box that the new part was sold in.

Core Deposit Purpose

The reason parts stores want the old alternator is that it will be sent to be remanufactured and resold. Parts stores charge the core deposit to assure that they receive the old part.