Fix It

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench. Install Fuel Pressure Gauge J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure connection on the fuel rail. Loosen the fill cap for the fuel tank, and open the valve on the fuel pressure gauge. Disconnect the fuel pressure gauge from the fuel pressure connection.

Drain the fuel tank and support it with jack stands. Remove the filler neck for the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel tank shield and the retaining straps for the fuel tank. Detach the fuel lines and electrical connector from the fuel pump. Disconnect the fasteners for the fuel tank with a socket wrench and lower the fuel tank from the vehicle with the jack stands.

Turn the locking ring on the fuel tank counter-clockwise with a spanner wrench. Remove the locking ring and detach the fuel pump from the fuel-sending unit. Discard the O-ring that is on the fuel tank.

Install the new O-ring on the fuel tank and lower the fuel-sending unit into the fuel tank. Avoid damaging the fuel strainer as this can restrict fuel flow. Turn the locking ring clockwise with a spanner wrench. The cam-locking ring will lock into position under the locking tabs.

Connect the fuel tank to the vehicle and tighten the fasteners to 33 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Attach the fuel lines and electrical connector for the fuel pump. Fasten the restraining straps and shield for the fuel tank. Connect the filler neck for the fuel tank. Connect the cable to the batterys negative terminal. Start the engine check for fuel leaks.

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery prior to starting any work. You need to do this before performing any repairs on your Blazer to reduce the risk of shock or electrical shorts while you work.

Locate the heater core on the engine compartment side of the firewall. Disconnect the inlet and outlet heater hoses from the heater core and plug the open end of the hoses to prevent debris from entering the hoses while you are working.

Remove the lower dashboard panels from both the left and right sides by turning the retaining screws counterclockwise to remove them and then depress the clips to release the panels.

Locate the pivot bracket under the dashboard at both ends of the dash. Turn the bolts on the pivot bracket counterclockwise to remove them from the dash assembly. Turn the Torx screws on the pivot brackets counterclockwise to remove them from the bracket.

Lower the steering column from the dashboard by turning the four nuts counterclockwise to remove them from the firewall bracing.

Find the steel rod brace located just to the right of center at the bottom of the dashboard. Turn the bolt at the end of this brace counterclockwise using the appropriate socket to remove it from the dashboard.

Use a flat screwdriver to pry the speaker grilles and the defrost outlet out of the dashboard. This will expose a series of bolts that are hidden behind the grilles. Turn each of these bolts counterclockwise to remove them from the dash.

Hold the dashboard and allow it to tilt towards the passenger compartment of the vehicle. Disconnect the main electrical plug and the radio antenna.

Remove the steel rod brace from the heater core. Once this brace has been removed, use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the six screws that secure the heater core cover to the housing.

Remove the screws at the top and bottom of the straps attaching the heater core to the passenger compartment side of the firewall counterclockwise to remove the support straps.

Remove the screw from the center of the strap covering the tubes leading to the engine compartment. This is located at the top-left of the heater core. Once this screw is removed, you will be able to pull the faulty heater core from the firewall and install the new one.

Reverse all steps to install the new heater core.

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel where the bearing is defective, using a lug wrench or socket and breaker bar. Raise the front of the truck with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the frame to support the truck.

Remove the lug nuts and pull the tire and wheel off the vehicle; set it aside for now. Locate the two retaining bolts at the top of the brake caliper and loosen the bolts with a socket and ratchet.

Remove the brake caliper bolts then lift the caliper off the brake rotor and support it with a piece of wire or twine. Do not allow the caliper to hang on the brake hose, as the weight of the caliper will damage the hose.

Slide the brake rotor off the hub assembly and set it aside. Locate the castle nut in the center of the hub and remove the cotter pin that retains the nut using a set of needle nose pliers. Discard the cotter pin, as a new one will be used during reassembly.

Place a hub nut socket on the nut, and using a breaker bar, rotate the nut counterclockwise. Remove the nut from the shaft. Move to the rear of the steering knuckle and locate the three hub retaining bolts that thread into the back of the knuckle and hub.

Remove the three hub retaining bolts with a socket and ratchet. Set the bolts aside and move back to the front of the knuckle.

Separate the hub from the knuckle using a cold chisel and hammer, driving the chisel into the seam between the two pieces. Pull the hub out of the knuckle and off the axle shaft. Discard the old hub if the bearing is defective.